Chanderi Handloom
District Handloom Office and Training Center, Chanderi, District Ashoknagar (M.P.)
Beyond its historical significance, the town of Chanderi is world-renowned for its handloom-woven Chanderi sarees, which are celebrated for their exquisite artistry. The history of textile production in Chanderi spans more than 500 years; around 1350 AD, approximately 20,000 weavers migrated from Lakhnauti, Bengal (present-day Dhaka), to settle in Chanderi. It was they who first initiated the production of muslin and velvet fabrics.Initially, the handloom industry produced items such as *safas* (turbans), *pagris* (headdresses), *lugda* saris, and drapes for elephant howdahs. Fine, hand-spun cotton yarn was used to craft these textiles. The region’s prominent fabrics enjoyed immense popularity in the Maratha royal courts of Dhar, Dewas, Nagpur, and Amravati. Chanderi artisans were among the few weavers in India capable of working with fine cotton yarns ranging from 200 to 250 counts.Turbans made in Chanderi weighed no more than 100 grams and measured approximately 10 yards in length. In the Baroda State, such turbans were part of royal attire. Maharaja Shivaji Rao Gaekwad wore Chanderi turbans and embroidered cotton Chanderi dhotis throughout his life. Gold and Chanderi *zari* (metallic thread) were used in the creation of these royal garments.
Current Status of the Chanderi Textile Industry:
At present, approximately 5,500 handlooms are established in Chanderi, engaging around 7,600 weavers in the production of Chanderi sarees and textiles. About 15,000 people are directly or indirectly involved in the Chanderi textile industry. Currently, the annual trade volume of Chanderi sarees stands at approximately ₹300 crore.
Details of the Chanderi Saree:
In the production of Chanderi sarees, raw materials such as silk for the warp, and materials like mulberry silk, mercerized cotton, zari, cotton yarn, and Katan silk for the weft, are utilized. For Chanderi production, silk is sourced from Bangalore and Banaras, mercerized cotton from Coimbatore, and zari from Surat (Gujarat).
Features of the Chanderi Saree:
The Chanderi saree is world-renowned for being handcrafted and distinguished by its fine workmanship, transparency, and extremely lightweight nature. The ‘Buti’—a specific type of design found on these sarees—is created by hand using a needle; these motifs are primarily crafted using *Zari* (metallic thread) and mercerized cotton. A large-sized floral or decorative motif is known as a *boota*. Handcrafted sarees remain durable and do not deteriorate even after prolonged use. There are various types of *booti* designs; motifs such as *Sikkad booti*, *Ashrafi booti*, trees, plants, animals, and birds are primarily used.
Major types of Chanderi saree production:
Nalferma Saree:
The production of the Nalferma saree involves the use of a shuttle made from horn, and the saree is crafted jointly by two individuals. It features a distinctive border design where the warp threads of the border and those of the rest of the saree are made from different yarns, which are interlocked during the weaving process. The materials used in its construction include 20/22 denier yarn for the warp, and pure silk and zari for the weft.
Double Adda:
Crafted with an exquisite combination of stunningly beautiful intricate borders and pure silk, this saree creates a vibrant, contrasting effect. Pure silk is used for both the warp and the weft in its construction.
Contrast Border:
This is a popular saree that looks stunning; its border is made of pure silk, while the base is crafted from Katan silk. It features numerous motifs created using pure zari. The saree is woven using pure silk for both the warp and weft, along with zari.
Iknaliya Buti Work:
This is a highly popular saree; the design is created using a single-pick technique, giving the *buti* (floral motif) a raised, embossed appearance. This method results in a dense *buti* pattern. The saree is crafted using 20/22 denier silk for the warp and 100s cotton for the weft, incorporating *zari* (metallic thread) into the weave.
All-over Jaal:
In this style, a design is created across the entire saree that resembles a lattice or net-like pattern. It is often referred to as a ‘Jangla’ saree. Pure silk is used for the warp, while silk or zari is used for the weft during its weaving.
Adda Border:
This style primarily involves intricate, heavy designing on the saree’s border, making it appear distinct from the main body of the saree. Its defining feature is the elaborate detailing or ‘carving-like’ work on the border. In terms of construction, pure silk is used for the warp, while silk or mercerized yarn is used for the weft.
Soldier Pallu:
This saree is produced using a standard construction method, utilizing pure silk for the warp and mercerized cotton for the weft. Mehndi-Adorned Hands: This saree has been traditionally crafted for years; it features a border design depicting hands adorned with henna (mehndi). Pure silk is used for the warp, while the weft consists of silk or mercerized cotton.Thus, all the aforementioned types of sarees are produced by various types of weavers.